If you google where is the Mamma Mia Island, your first answer is going to be Skopelos. To be perfectly honest, Skopelos wasn’t even on my radar until I watched that movie. This is an ideal filming location for any romantic comedy with its crystal clear blue waters, mountainous greenery, and majestic landscapes. But, as I got to know the island, there is so much more to it than Mamma Mia.
Getting To Skopelos
Getting to this beautiful island isn’t easy. It’s one of the few islands without an airport. I was coming from Athens, so it might have been a little more difficult than if you were island hopping. But still, even looking at the ferry schedule, it appeared to me that you still might have to transfer ferries at some point on your journey.
If you are arriving from Athens, there are two ways to get here. You can either fly into a nearby island and hop a ferry over or take a bus for 2 to 3 hours out, then take a ferry for another 3 hours or so. I personally chose to fly.
The easiest route that I found was to fly into Skiothes in the morning and hop the ferry from there. The flight takes about 45 minutes, and the ferry to the Mamma Mia island is only about a half-hour. Be careful. I missed my ferry because there were two coming back to back. So I waited in line to get on mine, and the next thing I knew, the ferry was leaving. All the other people in line were waiting for the next one.
Loutraki: The Closest Thing To Mamma Mia You’ll Find
You won’t find the little town like in the movie, because it is a fictional place. But, if you are looking for a quiet place with wonderful locals, Loutraki is the place for you. This is where I stayed for the first part of my trip to Skopelos. If I weren’t writing this blog and just wanted a nice relaxing vacation, I would not have even left this small town.
There are quiet beaches, wonderful local restaurants overlooking the sea, and if you like hiking, they got a couple of trails. Hikers beware; these hikes are basically all uphill with no flat terrain. The thing I loved most about this place was you were always treated like a local. They remember you. They wave to you as you walk past. People here seem to care how you are doing.
There are no major tourist spots in Loutraki, and it’s a simple village with one main road. For the most part, people seem to catch a ferry here and go to their next destination. If you are visiting Skopelos, spend a couple of days here, then head over to Skopelos Town and see the busier side of the island. Do spend a day exploring Glossa too. It’s the second largest town in Skopelos, right above Loutraki. The town has some great views.
Where To Stay In Loutraki
I found a wonderful Airbnb that is only a short walk from the port. The owner even came and picked me up at the port to make sure I didn’t get lost. It was a simple room, but perfect for me. If you want to spend a little more money, she has a couple of rooms with balconies overlooking the town.
If you like to treat yourself, the Pefkaki Boutique Hotel is right on the sea and appears to have amazing views. This is also a great place to have a fancy dinner if that’s what you are looking for.
How To Get Around
There is a bus that runs on the mainline from Loutraki to Skopelos Town. But you have to plan accordingly as the first one leaves at 8 am and the next one not until 2:30. But, it will also drop you off at Glossa and many of the beaches along the way.
If you want to stay in this quiet setting but still explore the island, they have a few places to rent cars and motorbikes. I personally am a little fearful of driving in a foreign place, but this is a good option if you don’t mind it. The roads are very hilly and windy, so make sure you listen for horns coming around the corner.
Where To Eat
Like I said before, there are some great local restaurants. Briki was one of my favorites. They have fantastic pizza and really nice staff. If you are looking for something a little more traditional, Klimataria right next to Birki’s was my go-to several times. Petrino is also a very nice option with great sea views.
The Mamma Mia Beach
I know I said there is more to this place than Mamma Mia, but I can’t not bring up Kastani beach where songs like “Does Your Mother Know” and “Don’t Go Changing My Emotions” were shot. I went here on a “Mamma Mia Island Tour.” Yes, That’s what they actually called it.
There’s a little beach bar there as well, where you can rent a chair for 8 euros, and they will serve you whatever you like. I didn’t get the beach chair, but I did have a burger on the patio. It’s basic bar food and mediocre in flavor. So you might want to pack a lunch if you plan on spending the day here.
But the beach itself is wonderful. It’s a little crowded as this is the beach in the movie. Still, the white rocks next to the blue waters were absolutely fantastic. And the water was the perfect temperature. You really can spend the whole day here it’s that beautiful.
Skopelos Town
Skopelos Town is the biggest city on the island, and probably the most touristy. It’s filled with shops and restaurants that wind around the narrow streets. This cliff city is absolutely stunning. With the classic Skopelos houses and stone streets, it’s so much fun getting a little lost.
There is so much to do and see in this little city. There’s a beach that you can enjoy, although not as nice as Kastani. They have plenty of boats that you can rent to take you around the island and a lot of bus tours. Definitely take a couple of days here and enjoy the magic of this gorgeous city. And be sure to walk all the way around the pier to get a great glimpse of the whole town as the blue waves crash against the pier.
Where To Stay
There are plenty of places to stay in Skopelos Town. They even have a Mamma Mia Hotel. I stayed at Georgios L Hotel. It’s nothing luxurious. It is a bed and bathroom and one hell of a view from the balcony. And at only 31 euros a night, you’re not going to find a better deal. I will admit their internet is horrible, but you shouldn’t have a problem if you’re okay with that. You can also find plenty of other hotels at Hotels.com if you are looking for something with a little more to it. Georgios L was great for me, but I’m also a simple budget traveler. This is a budget hotel. Think Motel 6 with a view.
Where To Eat
There are endless places to eat in Skopelos Town, with a lot of variety. The food is a little more expensive on this side of the island, but still great. But, I actually ended up eating at Kyratso’s Kitchen a few times because of the friendly service and fantastic food. Perhaps my favorite spot was Pablos Bar. He doesn’t have a website, but it is right above Kyratso’s Kitchen. You can go up here for a soda, wine, or whatever your preferred drink of choice is. Christoph is an amazing man that owns the place and is just happy to see you. And the view from your own private patio is gorgeous.
The Mamma Mia Church
The highlight of my visit to Skopelos was going to the Church of Agios Ioannis Kastri, or even as the locals call it, the “Mamma Mia Church.” This place is not easy to get to, and it took me three times to actually make it there, but it is worth it. I ended up taking the Mamma Mia Tour, which I will share more about in another post. But I loved this place so much.
It’s a little church that sits on top of a giant rock. There are over 200 terrifying narrow stone steps you have to climb to get there. Going up wasn’t so horrible, but coming down, I thought to myself, “So this is how I die.” Thankfully I made it. I was in awe of this beautiful structure of a rock with this little tiny chapel at the top. This is a must-see for anyone visiting Skopelos. If you have to pay a cab driver to get you there…Do it.
Skopelos, So Much More Than The Mamma Mia Island
While two of the major things I saw in Skopelos were associated with Mamma Mia, I found so much more to appreciate than a silly movie. There is a sense of peace and love on this little island. If Santorini is like a lover, Skopelos is like a family. It’s a place where people still look you in the eye and smile. It’s not necessary to lock your doors because people watch out for you. There is a genuine kindness about this whole island, and it’s tough to describe how it made me feel.
As an American, I am used to getting everything now and always being on some electronic device, but in Skopelos, that’s not the case. They take their time preparing the food. They aren’t checking their phones constantly and are having an actual face-to-face conversation. They care that you are happy.
If Skopelos was never on your list of places to see, I would put it at the top. Besides the beautiful location, you’re going to feel something you might not have felt in a long time. Peace. And let me tell you, it feels terrific. Skopelos is so much more than “Mamma Mia Island.” It’s a beautiful way of living.
And don’t forget to head to my HOMEPAGE to vote for where I head to next.
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Mary Jo Holmstrand
Thank you Johnny for taking us on an amazing island adventure. You blog is interesting and an open invitation for all to “come and see.” Wishing you well on your travels!
Johnny
Thanks. I’m really enjoying sharing this adventure with everyone.